Rousse, Bulgaria Part 2

08 June 2011 - We were docked in Rousse today again and we had a full day planned. After a drive through the Bugarian countryside we visited Veliko Turnovo which is built on three hills with the Yantra River winding through it. This is an unusual city whose stone houses seem perched one above the other on the steep bank of the Yatra river. We were taken to see Tsarevets - the place of the patriarchal church and royal palaces, the hill where Baudouin's Tower still rises, linked with the legend of the Latin Emperor Baudouin of Flanders who was captured by the Bulgarian king Kaloyan. We visited the entrance to the old fortress and saw the ruins of the Tzarevetz Castle

We also saw Trapezitsa - where the foundations of 17 medieval churches were discovered. It was a marvel to see the Bulgarian National Revival period architectural ensembles on Gurko Street, the old Nikoli Inn and the St. St. Constantine and Helena Church. The original Samovodene Market has been brought back to life and, as in olden times, skillful craftsmen fashion and sell exquisite objects in the small restored workshops. It was incredible to go from one shop to the next filled with local handmade treasures which you can buy for very little money.

There was a coppersmith making beautiful copper hammered pots that hung outside his shop gleaming in the sun next to window boxes filled with flowers, quite a quaint and beautiful sight.

Next I found a great bead shop where a lady was working away at making fabulous jewelry from the hand made beads she makes. It took forever to decide which to take home as they are all one of a kind individually made. I left with about 20 beads and only parted with a few dollars. It was a great time going from one shop to another viewing all the different crafts. The fun part is that you could buy items as souvenirs which are true items made in Bulgaria instead of having "Made in  China" stamped underneath, which makes each gift you take home that much more special.

One specialty which I fell in love with was the incredible hand made pottery you could find in some many shops. There was an infinite variety of pottery vases, cups, plates and cookware in so many colors, it was impossible to choose. Bulgaria is also famous for roses from which they produce Rose Oil which is exported worldwide. Many other products are made using the famous roses such as rose wine and rose liqueur (which is delicious!) as well as rose  body and bath products. One fun gift to bring home is a small wooden doll which contains a cylinder of rose perfume, really fun.   

After our free time for shopping we went and had lunch at a very picturesque restaurant where we had quite a tasty meal comprising of a wonderful goulash served in locally made pottery. The restaurant was quite large with beautiful grounds with fountains and a swimming pool, an outdoor Bar-B-Que made of stone as well as an area with caged peacocks which made for a really fun lunch stop. During the meal we saw a show with dancers dressed in traditional costumes and local musicians. It was so hot and humid that we were extremely happy to see the frosty bottles of beer, soda and water show up at our tables!

After lunch we were off to the village of Arbanassi which was founded in the late 15th centry by Christians coming from the south-western parts of the Balkan peninsula. It is situated 3km to the northeast of Veliko Turnovo, perching on a high plateau overseeing the Trapezitsa and Tsarevets hills. The settlement saw its bloom in the 17-18th c. when it grew into a wealthy crafts and trade hub. It was during that period that most of its gorgeous houses were erected. The oldest houses of Arbanasi are made entirely of stone and resemble tiny models of fortresses that cannot be seen anywhere else in Bulgaria.

Today Arbanassi is an architectural and museum reserve. It is a picturesque open-air museum of cultural heritage, which includes 80 houses as well as 5 churches, one special one being  "Rozhdestvo Hristovo" (The Church of the Nativity Of Christ) with more than 3,600 frescoes.

From the outside this building looks like a barn but inside is quite a different story. There are no windows but each inch of wall and ceiling space has been painted with extremely well preserved frescoes and the rooms are quite awe-inspiring. 

We got an added treat in our visit to this unique church. We were treated to a performance of some chant and operatic singing from a local ensemble of three ladies and a cleric who were very good indeed. It was quite a spiritual experience to hear chanting in this setting filled with so many incredible frescos. We sat on pews that were aligned against the walls in single file and the whole experience was amazing. 

After this full day many of us dozed off on the trip back to the ship. It was so refreshing to get into a nice cool comfy motorcoach after the sweltering heat of the day! We arrived back at the ship late afternoon. I was happy to find on my bed an envelope with an invitation from the captain to join him at a private cocktail party followed by dinner at his table with 6 other chosen guests. I was looking forward to this and anxiously got ready for this evening as it was the Gala Captain's Farewell Dinner. 

The private cocktail party with the captain was very special and it was so much fun to sip champagne and talk to the captain about his experiences at sea. After about 45 minutes we made our way to the dining room. I was very honored that the captain extended his arm to me to personally escort me to his table. I felt very proud to walk into the dining room on his arm with the eyes of all the passengers on us as we entered, these are the kinds of moments I will treasure always. The captain's table for eight was decorated with beautiful flowers and we were treated like royalty with white-gloved waiters placing silver-domed covered plates in front of us all served at the same time. It was quite magical with wonderful food and flowing champagne. This was definitely one of the highlights of the cruise.   

Rousse, Bulgaria Part 1

07 June 2011 - Today we had an early start as we docked in Rousse, Bulgaria at 8am. The tour today was a full day tour from Rousse to Varna and the Black Sea. The town of Rousse is located on the high right bank of the Danube River. It is the greatest and the most important Bulgarian town on the Danube River, known also as “Little Vienna” because of its ancient architecture. It is also a regional administrative centre.

Rousse has become the primary river port in Bulgaria and has contributed to the country’s historic and cultural riches. Founded in the 1st century as a Roman military and naval center, the town was called Sexaginta Prista (the City of Sixty Ships). The city’s name changed to Rousse while under Ottoman rule from 1388 to 1878. During the early 1900s, following Bulgaria’s liberation, the Monument of Freedom was erected in the central square. Overlooking the city, the female statue, with a sword in one hand and the other pointing toward the country’s liberators, hails as Rousse’s signature landmark today.

The famous Rousse mound - a prehistoric settlement existed more than 5000 years ago is located within the boundaries of the modern town. About 200 buildings in Rousse are considered part of architectural historical heritage of Bulgaria, 12 of which are especially valuable. Rousse is best-known for its 19th- and 20th-century Neo-Baroque and Neo-Rococo architecture. The city has a lovely downtown pedestrian area, which is filled with people enjoying the music, flowers, and fountains in the summer evenings.

After the tour of Rousse we traveled for several hours towards Varna, on the Black Sea. Varna’s origins date back almost five millennia, but it wasn’t until seafaring Greeks founded a colony here in 585 BC that the town became a port. The modern city is both a shipyard and port for incoming freighters and the navy, and a riviera town visited by tourists of every nationality.


It’s a cosmopolitan place and a nice one to scroll through: Baroque, turn-of-the-century and contemporary architecture pleasantly blended with shady promenades and a handsome seaside garden.

We had lunch at a restaurant on the beach shaped like an old pirate ship. It was very hot and humid and it was refreshing to finally get something to drink. After lunch we were free to walk along the beach or get our feet wet in the Black Sea. This was a topless beach and the men sure got an eyefull. 

In the mid afternoon we took our 2 1/2 hr. bus ride back to Rousse and the ship. I was exhausted when I finally reached the ship but was extremely grateful for having left the air-conditioning on high in my cabin.  

It was very easy to drop down on the bed for my pre-dinner nap, a welcome habit I had picked up in the past two weeks. I would nap from 5pm until 7pm and then get ready for dinner.

Another wonderful day was completed and the cruise was unfortunately coming to an end.   

 

Vidin, Bulgaria

06 June 2011 - This morning we arrived in Vidin, Bulgaria.Vidin is one of the oldest towns along the Bulgarian Danube bank. Here you will find many farms and the region is well known for wine and ceramics. The Turks built an extensive city wall around Vidin, and by the 16th. century it was the largest town in Bulgaria. During the 18th. and 19th. centuries Vidin prospered from the increase in river traffic. Today, as evidence of the different cultures that settled here you can find churches, synagogues, mosques, a bazaar and ruins of a medieval fortress.

After the tour of Vidin we went to visit the Fortress of Baba Vida. The construction of Baba Vida was started based on the ruins of an old Roman fortified watch-point called Bononia, which was most likely built over the foundations of an ancient Thracian settlement at the beginning of I A.D. The Bononia watch-point was in use from the middle of I till the end of VI A.D. It formed a part of the Danube border of the Roman Empire. The remains of the fortifications can be still seen today in different places in the town of Vidin. The best preserved section is the base of the northeast corner tower, which later became incorporated into the Baba Vida fortress during its construction.

Walking around the fortress on my own was a great experience since it was very quiet and peaceful and the area was filled with beautiful flowers and it was easy to believe that you were in a time centuries ago. Once can only imagine how life was when you needed such a fortress for protections. The view from the watch tower was amazing and went on for miles. Baba Vida was declared a national cultural monument in 1964 and also in 1964 the fortress opened a summer theater, which held traditional theatrical summer days. Many filmmakers recognize the unique natural scenery of the Baba Vida fortress.  The castle itself inside protects a number of findings and information about the history of the fortress. The entire fortress is tailored for tourism purposes, and visitors today can see the that the fortress is well maintained and in near natural condition and appearance.
 

After the fortress visit we headed towards a natural wonder, the rock formations of Belogradchick. Belogradchik is situated in an extremely picturesque region with unique rock formations and natural sights. Thus it has become a famous tourism centre with excellent resources for trips, cave and bicycle tourism, mountain climbing, hunting, fishing or even astronomic observation.  Belogradchick emerged during the middle ages with the construction of a fortress amidst the rocks, which determined the development of the settlement. The town is named after the white monastery of the fortress.  

The Iron Gates

05 June 2011 - This morning I could sleep in as we set sail on the Danube towards Vidin, Bulgaria. During the day we will sail through what is called "The Iron Gates". From its headwaters in Germany’s Black Forest, the Danube winds its way through ten European countries to drain into the Black Sea. For much of its course, the river moves lazily through wide valleys, but as it enters the border region between Romania and Serbia, its banks narrow into a series of high cliffs. Here, the river carved a passage through the lower Carpathian Mountains to its north and the Balkan Mountains to its south, creating a series of four steep gorges. These gorges are known as the Iron Gates.

The Iron Gates of the Danube River originally consisted of four narrow gorges and three wide basins spread over several miles of the river dividing Romania and Serbia. In the 1960s, a huge lock and dam was built to control the speed of the river and make navigating this section of the Danube River safer.  Today, the river flowing through the Iron Gates is peaceful, and it is 130 feet higher than prior to the dam and power station. The effect of the dam can be felt on the river for over 100 miles, and two locks, spread more than 50 miles apart, anchor each end of the Iron Gates. Over 23,000 citizens living along the river had to be resettled after the dam was complete.

Along the way we can see an interesting carving of a ruler high up on a massive rock, this is very impressive that this could have been done. We also got to go through some locks which is also very interesting as we are taken from one level to another and we see the ship go lower and lower with cement walls encircling us.....very unusual. The Great Kazan (kazan meaning "boiler") is the most famous and the most narrow gorge of the route: the river here narrows to 150 m and reaches a depth of up to 53 m (174 ft). East of this site the Roman emperor Trajan had the legendary bridge erected by Apollodorus of Damascus. Construction of the bridge ran from 103 through 105, preceding Trajan's conquest of Dacia. On the right bank a Roman plaque commemorates him. On the Romanian bank, at the Small Kazan, the likeness of Trajan's Dacian opponent Decebalus was carved in rock from 1994 through 2004.

Dinner this evening was great as usual. I had a Caesar salad, beef consomme and a roasted breast of Duck cooked in a red wine and orange sauce...stupendous! 

Viminacium, Serbia

04 June 2011 - This morning we arrived in Kostolac, Serbia. After breakfast I was anxious for today's tour which was a visit to the archaeological site of Viminacium.

 Viminacium was devastated and destroyed in the middle of the 5th century, and it remained forgotten and buried like Pompeii, which disappeared under a flood of lava from Vesuvius in 79 A.D. That analogy and the recognition that the remains of the Roman town and the military camp represent a site of exceptional interest explains why Viminacium has been called the Balkan Pompeii. What distinguishes Viminacium from other archaeological sites and makes it particularly important is the exceptional wealth of finds contained already in its surface, arable layer. As a result, more than 13.500 graves have been explored in the past twenty-five years and more than 32,000 finds have been deposited in the vaults of the Museum.

However Viminacium lies in the way of the expanding strip mine "Drmno". The experts and authorities, though aware of the importance of energents for the development of the country, are nevertheless trying to find means to preserve as large a part of the site of Viminacium as possible, for they consider it an exceptionally valuable testimony of the past which should be bequeathed to the future generations. According to the planned development of the "Drmno" strip mine, the zone of the Roman town and the military camp will not be endangered before 2040. Viminacium, however, covers as area of more than 450 hectares, and the town is directly menaced by the advancing mine.

Some exceptional monuments are located in this area. They include an aqueduct nearly 10 kilometers long, some late classical basilicas, agricultural estates of Roman veterans, villae rusticae, and Roman roads which connected Viminacium with the neighboring towns. Some of these monuments have been discovered by the methods of remote detection, the analysis of aerial photos, geo-radar and magnetometric examination, and some have been archaeologically explored.

I found it incredible to not only see artifacts of this ancient town but to see actual skeletons lying there only a few feet where I walked! This was truly amazing.

We returned to the ship for lunch and set sail at noon for Donji Milanovac, Serbia. After a full lunch it was nice to go on deck and watch the small villages slide by as we sailed along the Danube.

We arrived in Donji Milanovac, Serbia at around 7pm. Dinner this evening started with melon and Prosciutto then a rich cream of sweet corn soup. The main course I chose was beef Stroganoff which was wonderful. Dinner could not be complete without chocolate ice cream topped with whipped cream.  

After dinner we were entertained by the Triola Band from Skadarlija playing Old Town Music.  

Belgrade, Serbia

03 June 2011 - We arrived in Belgrade, Serbia at about 7am. Need-less-to-say I was still asleep until 8:30am. The breakfast buffets onboard are fantastic. They have several kinds of cereals and fruits to choose from, oatmeal as well. Then you have hot scrambled eggs with crisp bacon and pancakes; you can also have a made-to-order breakfast of a variety of omelets or eggs benedict......fresh orange juice to top it all off and if you want some cheese, it's there as well next to baskets of muffins and croissants with European jams aplenty. After the morning feast it was off to explore another new city. Belgrade. 

Belgrade is not a beautiful city - even Belgraders agree on that - but it is an interesting city that's full of hedonism, passion and finesse. Architecturally, it's a mishmash of two centuries of grandiose buildings and ugly Soviet-style concrete blocks. Perched between the Danube and Sava Rivers, the ancient Kalemegdan Citadel has always sought (not always successfully) to protect the city. Leading from it into the city heart is the princely Knez Mihailova, a street of restaurants, bookshops, galleries and shops full of pretty things. Belgraders love to shop and party, which probably developed as an antidote to the numbness of the Milošević years.

Belgrade is the capital of Serbian culture, education, science and economy. As a result of its tumultuous history, Belgrade has for centuries been home to many nationalities, with Serbs of the Orthodox Christian religion making up the majority of the population. The official language is Serbian, while visitors from abroad can use English to communicate. 

Once we finished our tour we went back to the ship for lunch. Lunch is also buffet style but there are a ton of hot and cold choices including roasts and great soups with fresh baked breads. The desserts are phnominal and unfortunately we are all indulging.  

In the afternoon we we free to visit on our own. I walked around and mingled with people and found a cute lil Serbian dog to photograph. I have been making a collection of one special dog photo from each location I visit which I feel will be fun when all grouped together.   

I was a bit tired this afternoon so a short nap was in order. I always get sleepy around 4pm and then wake up refreshed around 7pm to get ready for dinner. Speaking of dinner tonight I chose a seafood salad, a Serbian cream of potato soup followed by BBQ Norwegian Salmon. Of course no meal is complete without dessert and tonight I had a chocolate mousse with fresh fruits.

Osijek, Croatia

02 June 2011 - Today we arrived in the port of Vukovar, Croatia. After an early breakfast we headed off for a tour to Osijek. It is the largest city and the economic and cultural centre of the eastern Croatian region of Slavonia, as well as the administrative centre of Osijek-Baranja county. Osijek is located on the right bank of the river Drava, 25 kilometres upstream of its confluence with the Danube.


After a tour of the town we visited a school to see a presentation of some local folkloric songs and dances. The costumes were very colorful and it was enjoyable to see the proud faces of the girls and boys beaming with pride for demonstrating their local culture.

The highlight of the day for me was a hosted lunch by a local family. We were broken down in groups of eight and had lunch prepared by a local Croatian family in their home. When we entered the gate there were three little miniature Doberman dogs sitting there at attention as if to welcome us.

The meal comprised of a hearty vegetable soup with some home made bread, a salad, roasted chicken with great potatoes and home-grown vegetables and finish it off a nice sponge cake. They pride themselves in offering their home-made brady but man is it strong! It's 50% proof! One shot of that and you don't have to heat your home for weeks!

After the meal I just had to go out and play with those dogs. They came running over and were dancing all over the place with friendliness, very cute. I noticed a pond in the yard and then saw some small frogs jumping from lily pads into the water, when the dogs caught sight of them all hell broke loose! It was hysterical to see these small dogs swan dive into the pond and look for the frogs (which they never caught). They ran around the pond in a frenzy while the frogs mocked them, I had a great time watching them.

Behind the yard the owners had cages with an owl, some pheasants and other farm animals. They also had the biggest roses I have ever seen, I'm sure some were the size of lettuce heads. Very beautiful to see this calm way of life, a quiet village with small cottages dispursed here and there overflowing with flowers and caring neighbors and small animals. It was a fabulous day.

We then drove back to the ship to get ready for dinner. Tonight I had a very good consomme with dumplings, roasted rack of lamb followed by an amazing hazelnut cake served with hazelnut ice cream and caramel sauce.....OMG I can just imagine the calories on that one!

After enjoying a few Coke-lights in the library while I checked my emails and chatted with some friends, I went to bed around 1am...tommorrow is another day!

Budapest Part 2

01 June 2011 - Today we were in Budapest for another day. Right after breakfast we went on a real different tour out to the Puszta to see a horse show.

We exlored the vast Hungarian landscape on our half-day visit to the Puszta which literally means “plains”. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our tour of the Puszta began in Domonyvölgy. We drove for about 45 minutes befgore we reached this ranch and we were greeted by a handsome cowboy. We then got on covered wagons pulled by two horses to be led to the main building. We had so much fun laughing and cracking jokes, a good time.

They gave us upon arrival a pogaca (salty scone) and the traditional Hungarian welcome drink  palinka (fruit brandy). That stuff is lethal, it is 50% alcohol!! When you drink it you can feel the heat going down your throat and then it feels like your chest is on fire. They all make their own home made version and drink this stuff like it was water...hahahaha.

As the Puszta was originally inhabited by cowherds, horse herders, and shepherds, we were treated to an equestrian extravaganza. The horse show was very interesting and these Hungarian cowboys’ skills, including demonstrations of

pyramid riding and competitions between the horsemen was really fun to watch.

At one point they showed how their horses were well trained; they had them lay down on cue and then sit on their hind legs, was great. Then they had a  demonstration with large whips that make cracking noises as they are snapped. There was even a cute donkey pulling a cart.

Following the show we went to visit the stables to see the Lippizzaner horses since they are bred and trained here. They also had all kinds of other animals to see. There were water buffaloes, goats, chickens and a turkey all in the middle of hundreds of acres of land which belonged to the rancher. After the tour we headed back for our ship.

I had lunch onboard and dinner as well and when it was dark I decided to go take pictures of the chain bridge which is the world famous main bridge in Budapest.

I walked along the embankment of the Danube with the city all lit up reflecting on the water, it was truly magical. As I got closer to the bridge I could see the massive stone lions at the entrance all lit up, so beautiful at night.

I walked the entire length of the bridge from the Buda side t the Pest side and walked around for a bit taking pictures of some monuments there. There were lovers walking on and off the bridge and strolling along the Danube, it was a warm and romantic night.

I then walked back across the other side of the bridge, taking more pictures and leisurely mace my way back to the ship. By now it was close to midnight and most people were gone to bed. I made my way to the cabin and opened my patio door to marvel at the beautiful bridge I had just crossed. Waves flowed on the Danube. I finaloy got into bed turned out the lights and for a little while I gazed out at this fascinating city glowing in the Danube and then fell asleep thinking of the next adventure that lay ahead.  

Budapest Part 1

31 May 2011 - Today we arrived in Budapest. I had to get up real early in order to see us sail past the Parliament building which is a major monument in Budapest and I wanted some great photos! It was so amazing to finally sail past this wondrous sight that I had seen in so many books in the past year. The city is bursting with cafes and shops big and small and it is so stupendous to see the Danube flow on it's banks.



One side of the Danube is Buda and the other side is Pest, these are separated by many bridges. The mosy popular one is Chain Bridge which has a pedestrian walkway and has these massive stone lions guarding each entrance.

We departed at 9am for our tour of Budapest and boy there was a lot to see! We visited the Castle District which is high on a hill with great views of the city, I got some great shots from there! Castle Hill is a 1,5km long hill, overlooking the Danube, located in Budapest’s No1 District. The Old Town occupies the larger part of Castle Hill – it is also referred to as the Buda Castle; the Royal Palace occupies the southern portion. Because of its medieval origins, 17^th and 18^th centuries monuments, and its historical significance, the Old Town is Budapest’s primary tourist attraction. It is on UNESCO’S World Heritage List.

The most important sights in the castle are the Mátyás Church, the Fishermen’s Bastion and the Royal Palace. Walking along the medieval streets of the Old Town one comes across numerous historic dwellings, public buildings as well as many museums. The Castle offers wonderful panoramas of the Danube, its bridges, and of the Pest side. The Old Town can be comfortably approached on foot via a track under the Fishermen’s Bastion, via the funicular railway, or by bus.

The Neo-Romanesque Fishermen’s Bastion, located behind the Mátyás Church, was erected between 1895 and 1902, on a site where previously the medieval castle walls had stood.  The structure, which is a prominent landmark in the city, was designed by Frigyes Schulek.

After the tour it was back to the ship for lunch and to relax. Dinner onboard was great as usual.

Bratislava, Slovakia

    

30 May 2011 - Today after another great breakfast we arrived in Slovakia. Our tour took us to the capital city, Bratislava. 

This city is so quaint and medieval, it even has a castle sitting on top of a hill. Bratislava was once the capital of Hungary for over 300 years. It is quite a fairytale place. It was founded in the 2nd century BC. There is an Old Town section which is two interlinked squares. In one squaqre you can see a fountain and antique statues. There is a structure called Michael's Gate which is the only gate remaining from the medieval fortifications. It is stunnng with it's baroque facade. The city is small and quaint so it is easy to see all the main sights in one day. 

Casanova loved Bratislava and declared it the most beautiful city in Europe. It is filled also with beautiful people who really seem to enjoy life.  

We also visited the Franciscan Church which is Bratislava's oldest religious buildings. It has magnificent stained-glass windows and impressive statues. It was here that knighting ceremonies were performed. The altar is wonderfully decorated and you get such a sense of peace in here.

Then we were off to see Bratislava Castle for an extraordinary vantage point to get a panoramic view of the city. It truly was a fascinating vista. You could see for miles the tiny cobbled-stoned winding streets, the red-tiled rooftops and dozens of varieties of colored flowers all perched along the beautiful Danube river. The castle, on a hill above the old town, dominates the city of Bratislava. It features in the first written reference to the city, which appears in the Annals of Salzburg of 907, in association with a battle between Bavarians and Hungarians.
The castle hill was populated as early as the late Stone Age; its first known inhabitants were the Celts, who founded a fortified settlement here called ‘Oppidum’.
                                                                                                                                    

We then went to St. Martin's Cathedral. These churches that are hundreds of years old are so magnificent that words can't describe how stupendous and monumental they are. St. Martin's was built from the 13th to the 15th century. They are making renovations to the outside tower so it did have some scaffolding but the inside was marvelous.  It has four chapels: the canons’ chapel; the Gothic chapel of Sophia of Bavaria, widow of the Czech King Wenceslas IV; the chapel of St Anne; and the baroque chapel of St John the Merciful. The portal of the southern antechamber represents the oldest example of Renaissance architecture in Slovakia. Between 1563 and 1830 St Martin's served as the coronation church for Hungarian kings and their consorts, marked to this day by a 300-kg gilded replica of the Hungarian royal crown perched on the top of the cathedral's 85-metre-tall neo-Gothic tower. At the beginning of September each year the pomp and circumstance of the coronation returns to Bratislava in a faithful reconstruction of the ceremony.

We were back to the ship around 1pm to rest and have lunch and the afternoon was at leisure. Dinner was at 7pm and in the evening I caught up with emails and my blog.

Vienna, Austria Part 2

29 May 2011 - After breakfast it was off for the city tour of Vienna. This city is so beautiful to see. Intricate heavy wooden doors with intricate wrought iron gates, window boxes fill the luxury apartments along wide glorious boulevards.

As the former home of the Habsburg court and its various empires, the city still has the trappings of the imperial capital it once was, and the historic city centre is inscribed on the  Unesco World Heritage list.

Vienna is the city of music. More famous composers have lived here than in any other city – in Vienna, music is literally in the air: Waltzes and operettas have their home here, and so do musicals "made in Vienna," which have conquered international audiences. The city’s concert halls and stages offer the whole range from classical to progressive sounds with end-to-end festivals the whole year through.

Just a few paces from Vienna's old city, trendy beach bars along the Danube Canal provide that Riviera feeling with music, cool cocktails and delicious food.

Viennese palaces once served as city residences for noble families. Today they are home to numerous interesting shops, particularly in the historic city center. The term palace was originally used to describe a noble residence that, as opposed to a castle, was neither fortified nor in a rural setting. In Vienna, where the Habsburg family resided for centuries, numerous noble families from all over the empire settled in the capital to be near the Hofburg. After World War II many of the palaces were sold by their original owners. Today they house government ministries, embassies, museums and shops.

I found the city to be so romantic, you can see horse-drawn carriages everywhere and if you close your eyes and listen to the the sound of the clip-clop of the horses on the cobbled-stoned streets you can imagine you are in the time of the "Sound of Music" or during the time of the Empress Sisi.

We drove along the Ringstrasse which is the major boulevard of Vienna which houses wonderful shops filled with all sorts of crystal, silver and wondrous findings.

Vienna is home to the world famous Spanish Riding School which is the oldest and last Riding School in the world where classic dressage is still practised in its purest form. This Institute was founded in 1572.

It's name was derived from the fact that the horses were of Spanish origin. The Lipizzaner is regarded to be the oldest classic horse race in Europe. The horses have been bread in Lipizza in Slovenia. Tody, there is a stud in Piber, close to Graz. Young Lipizzaner are black and only turn white when reaching maturity. They need to undergo elaborate training before they are able to perform their prancing Renaissance ballet to the sound of classical music. They are the Rolls Royce of horses and I always wanted to see one because of their rarity.

I was all excited to see them in person in Vienna but I was disappointed to hear that on the day we were in Vienna there was no visiting allowed.....OMG I wanted to desperately see one of these beautiful horses, I was so disappointed!

As I walked along the tour secretly sulking I heard the guide say "to the right is the world famous Spanish Riding School. I immediately perked up and to my surprise and jubilation the door was open to the inner court yard which I am told never happens and lo and behold there were two of the most beautiful horses I had ever seen!!! They were in their stalls and I stood there praying they would turn around so I could get a better look and then miraculously one looked straight at me and posed, I immediately snapped his photo! I was so pleased I could have cried, I always wanted to see one in person and my wish, however brief, was exonerated. 

Now I was happy to continue the tour and we had some free time to visit on our own and I had some great experiences. In one of the plazas of the old town there was an old accordianist  playing Viennese music and several costumed couples danced all around in a circle.  

Then it was on to St. Stephan's cathedral. This is an imposing black structure with gothic spirals that make an awesome contrast to the blue sky. It always amazes me to touch a stone that was once also touched by a crusader or monk hundreds of years ago. This building is one of the main icons of Vienna with a main square in front of it and many charming side streets lined with cafes and souvenir shops.

Here I saw young couples strolling hand-in-hand, old men in deep discussion at a sidewalk cafe, street musicians engulfing the air with classical music and many small dogs out for a walk with their masters as the Viennese populace intertwine with the visitors all awestruck with the Vienna landscape and culure.

After stopping in a small shop to pick up some famous Viennese chocolate for the cabin we continued on to the Austrian National Library. I have to admit that this was the most beautiful library I have ever seen in the world! It has 50 ft high coffered ceilings painted with the most immpressive frescoes I have ever seen. The rooms are sensational filled with books written by philosophers and scientists dating back to the 12th century. This, the largest baroque library in Europe, was erected in the first half of the eighteenth century as an independent wing of the Imperial Palace.

More than 200,000 volumes are exhibited here, among them the comprehensive library of Prince Eugene of Savoy as well as one of the largest collections of Martin Luther’s writings from the Reformation Era. In total over 7 million items are on exhibition here comprising in addition to the volumes, papyri, maps, manuscripts, sheets of music, photographs as well as rare autographs.

Among the exhibits are two exquisite Venetian baroque globes: one for the earth and one for the sky, each with a diameter of more than one meter. Sculptures are perfect ornaments to the beautiful old leather bound books which line the walls. Most shelves are so high you need a ladder to reach them. Some priceless manuscripts and books are kept in glass-enclosed cabinets and it is chilling to see the written words of hundreds of years ago on parchment paper.

Later is was back on the ship to relax, eat gourmet meals and sail towards Bratislava!

Vienna, Austria Part 1

28 May 2011 - Today was an early start for the airport at 7am. I flew from Paris to Vienna which was only 1-1/2 hours so it was not so bad. Upon arrival I was met by a Uniworld representative and after waiting for a few more people off we went to the ship.

We arrived at lunchtime so they had a nice buffet arranged and since I was starving by now was happy to finally have a snack.

The cabin is quite nice, I have the best category on board so I am on the top deck with a sliding glass door and a French balcony which is great. The bed is very confortable and has a feather duvet and feather pillows.

I walked along the river a bit but basically used the rest of the day to unpack and setup all my stuff for the next 12 days. I took a nice nap in the late afternoon and then got ready for dinner.

I met a cute lil old man from Chicago and he is a hoot, always has a joke or a one-liner, he is fun. I also met a great many Canadians surprising enough. Two couples from Vancouver, 2 from Nova Scotia and some from Ontario. I was pleasantly surprised.

Dinner was marvelous they had veal cutlets which is the traditional dish of Vienna, was delicious. They had pastries of every kind as well which was a no-no but what the heck, I am on vacation.

Had a quick drink in the bar and then went back to the cabin to make it an early night since tommorrow is an early start with the city tour.

Paris, France Part 5

27 May 2011 - What a day I had today! I got up early and decided to take the bus instead of the metro since you can see more than way. I headed out towards Montmarte and it was so scenic driving by all the fancy apartments and upscale stores like Louis Vuitton and Cartier.

It was a great 25 minute ride on a clear day with lots of sunshine but luckily a bit cooler since it had been so hot the last couple of days. All the Parisians has sweaters and coats on while I had a short sleeved blouse and loving it..lol

Montmartre is the most charming area in all of Paris, it is an eyeful of quaintness brimming over with small old houses with flower boxes and cafes on every corner. They have a great cute stores with all kinds of pastries and cheeses and people are so colorful. You see old ladies walking with their small dogs, old men sitting at cafes arguing with their friends over an expresso. Lovers walk hand in hand up the many narrow cobbled-stoned streets. I just loved it. 

After walking a bit I made my way to the funiculaire that takes you up the hill to the magnificent Sacre Coeur cathedral. When you finally set eyes on this incredible structure all white against the blue sky it truly takes your breath away. The inside is glorious with intricate stained glass  windows hundreds of years old. It's an awesome sight to see the high ceilings with painted frescoes glowing in the lights of the thousands of candles lit by the faithful in offerings to their favorite saint. The silence is calming and you can't help but feel blessed to be alive in this serene place where millions have gone before you for hundreds of years. I bought a small but beautiful crucifix for my apartment as well as a tiny trifold icon. As I was leaving the church I saw a priest and asked him if he could bless my small treasures as well as the cross I was wearing and he smilingly oblidged and after he said, "Go in peace my child", a serene moment to be sure.

When I had walked around some more through small alleys with nooks and crannies I saw a small tram in the shape of a mini train and he was taking people down the hill back to the metro and busses. I thought this would be great fun and hopped on. This turned out to be fantastic as it took 40 minutes and was like a private sightseeing tour in itself, I loved it. While we drove around in this cute little train through the streets the driver played French music and it was wonderful to hear Edith Piaf singing while we took in the sights of Montmartre.

It was ironic to hear her sing as my next stop was to the famous "Pere Lachaise" cemetary to visit her grave. Everyone goes there to visit the grave of Jim Morrison from The Doors but my main reason was to go see the resting place of one of my favorite singers of all time.

I took a metro this time to the cemetary and was awestruck by the enormous tombstones of the families buried here. We are not talking just marble slabs here but huge mausoleum style structures for each person! I have never seem such a magnificent cemetary. You would think it would be gruesome to visit a cemetary but in this case it was like being in a medieval movie. It was now thew end of the day and the sky was covered over and it gave the area a pale grey look and with the crows flying everywhere it was mind-numbing. I found it to be so peaceful and calming, it was extremely quiet and the only sound of the wind blowing in the trees and the odd call from a crow.....incredible feeling.

I saw the grave of Chopin, Oscar Wilde and Rossini and finally I arrived at my main attraction, Edith Piaf. I gave a little prayer to her and reflected there a few minutes on the incredible talent that was no more. I finally bid her adieu and slowly strolled away misty-eyed as I hummed "La Vie En Rose" to myself walking down the hill.

I took the bus back home and picked up a few items for dinner as well as the best apple tart I had ever tasted. I took a short nap after all the walking I had done, with plans to go to the Arc de Triompe after dark to take some night shots of it.

It stays light until 10pm so I headed out on the bus around 10:30pm, so nice to see Paris by night. The lights seem to give out a pinkish glow. After 25 minutes through a scenic route I arrived at the Arc in all it's lit glory. I took the "money shot" as it's called and was quite happy so I headed back towards the apartment to reflect on my time here.

Once at the apartment it was already midnight and sadly it was time to pack up. When I was all done I sat on my balcony and stared at the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower for the last time. It was a great 5 days filled with history, great food, incredible sights and memories of cherished experiences. Paris I will miss you but I have a riverboat to go catch......au revoir until next time.    

   

Paris, France Part 4

26 May 2011 - Today I decided to take the bus instead of walking for miles in the metro. It was so easy to just walk across the street, hop on and begin my journey to the Louvre all the while having a scenic tour of Paris. We sailed passed Cartier and all the big designer houses, great fun. After 25 minutes I finally was at the Louvre. The last time I was here I did not spend half the time I wanted too, so today I indulged and went to find my favorites.

Good thing I had already bought a museum pass ahead of time as I could walk right in instead of standing in line behind the 400 people lined up to get in. This alone is worth the cost of the pass.

When you first walk in you are under the glass pyramid and conveniently close to the souvrnir shops. There you can buy a millions different items with a photo of the Mona Lisa on it ..... I managed to resist any purchase except a Louvre guide.

I wandered through the many corridors and marveled at all the wondrous priceless paintings and sculptures and couldn't help but ponder on the fact that most of these artists died penniless.

Finally I just had to go peek at the star attraction "La Joconde" ...the Mona Lisa. Besides now being protected behind glass she has not changed in the past 30 years since I last saw her. With all the stress she has gone through over the years such as being stolen, had acid throw on her and slashed by a crazy person, she is no worse for wear. The mysterious smile is still intact and her image is open to a variety of interpretations, even to this day, as to who she really was and why the strange smile.

I took pictures of all the paintings I loved most (no flash please) another freedom which was not tolerated 30 years ago.

After many hours of bliss I decided to venture out to visit the Place de La Concorde, a pivotal area during the French revolution as well as the plot where the guillotine was set up so many years ago. It is a vast area with monument buildings and beautiful fountains (was kinda neat to see my screensaver image in real life). I wandered around and took some great photos and then fell victim to a souvenir that had the greatest large size coffee/soup mugs with scenes of Paris all over it...just had to have one.

By this time I had been walking for over 6 hours and felt it was time to make my way back to my lil home. I had some wine and a baguette with some ham and once full had a short nap.....ahhhhh this is the life :o)

Time to hit the sheets now.....tomorrow it's time for Montmartre and Versailles!

Paris, France Part 3

25 May 2011 - What a day I had today! I spent 9 hours walking around the city, getting in and out of metros, walking up hundreds of stairs and after visiting La Conciererie and Notre Dame cathedral, with a newly formed blister under my foot I collasped back at the apartment.

My first stop was La Conciergerie which was the prison where Marie Antoinette was housed prior to her execution. Entering the building was quite an experience seeing the vaulted ceilings which for me represented history which centuries ago it represented for so many the gruesome holding unit until execution by the guillotine. You can see the rooms were the guards were and several cells. Even then there was a class system for the cells. If you were poor you got a cell with straw on the floor to sleep on. If you had a bit more money you got a small cot which wasn't much but at least you were off the floor. Then if you were wealthy you got a bigger cell with a regular bed and a small writing desk.

Here many prisoners were tortured to death. Under Louis XIV the held witch trials and the unfortunate ones who were accused of conspiring with the devil met their fate here.

Marie Antoinette's cell was larger and outfitted with a desk and chairs and a separate room housed her two guards. Her trial opened on the 15th. of October 1793, on the morning of the 16th. she was sentenced to death. At 11 am she was led to the guillotine, and at 12:15 was executed on the plaza known today as Place de La Concorde.

Next I sat at the Cafe de Notre Dame and had the greatest "chicken club" which is in fact a baguette filled with fresh chicken topped lettuce and mayo, really delicious. I ordered a diet Coke which is called CocaCola Light here but at 5.6 Euros I am not indulging my addiction! Even at the stores each small bottle is 2.9 Euros!

My next adventure took me to Notre Dame Cathedral. What a magnificent church this is! The stained glass and the chandeliers all sparkle under the glow of the thousands of candles lit by visitors from all over the world. I lit one and also bought a glassed candle to take home. I also spoiled myself and bought the most beautiful crystal rosary beads. While walking thru the church I came across a priest and I asked him to bless the cross I was wearing and my rosary and he eagerly obliged.....very special to me.

Then I was off the take photos of the famous gargoyles atop Notre Dame, this was great. I then walked across the bridge to Isle St. Louis and landed at Berthillon which is reputed to be the best ice cream parlor in Paris....well I had a 2 scoop cone for 4Euros, one coconut and one banana....unfortunately I found it quite mediocre, too crystalized instead of creamy like back home.....so much for that reputation.

I then walked along the Seine and watched the bateau-mouches boats sail buy until I reached a great vantage point to tak pictures of the back of Notre Dame.

There is a bridge there where there are thousands of small locks attached to the wiring. It is the custom for lovers to write their names on a lock, attach it to the fence and then throw the key in the river in order to have lasting love.....ahhhh only the Parisians could think of that one  :o)

I made the obligatory stop at some souvenir stalls and of course picked up a few items like prints and a Paris tote, kitchy but fun.

I finally made my way back home exausted from the heat and the endless walking in the metros, I think I might hop on the bus tomorrow.

It 's now my bed time so until next time......bonne nuit!