Prague, Czech Republic Part 1

This morning I had a very early flight to Prague. I preferred to leave early since I only had three days in Prague and I wanted to make the most of my time. By the time I was settled into my hotel it was almost noon and I got changed into something comfortable to go exploring this gorgeous city. There was a cute terrasse restaurant right around the corner from the hotel and they had reindeer goulash which is something that had to be tried..... it was delicious.  

Then it was off to cross the Charles Bridge and start exploring. This bridge is probably the most famous attraction in the city as thousands of tourists and locals alike cross it to get from the Lesser Town to the Old Town. Large statues adorn each side of the bridge in it's entirety. Many have a history of a special event linked to the statue.   

A city of history, politics, romance and culture, the Czech capital of Prague has earned itself many nicknames over the years, including both the 'Golden City' and also the rather descriptive 'City of a Hundred Spires'. Prague is situated at the very heart of eastern Europe and for many years was filled with Communist and Soviet gloom. However, when Prague become the capital of the recently independent country in 1993, it was a city reborn and today you can enjoy a wealth of restored historical buildings, a celebrated musical tradition and a noticeable, exciting atmosphere. There are many cubist houses within the Jewish Quarter, the tranquil oasis that is to be found in the Petrin Gardens. 

Wenceslas Square is where many of Prague's most famous sights reside and this is actually more of a promenade than an actual square. Along this stretch you will encounter the famous Hotel Europa, the magnificent Koruna Palace, and the State Opera House. Other top attractions in Prague are to be found around the Little Quarter Square, which is very much dominated by St. Nicholas Church and the Liechtenstein Palace. Close by, you can take a ride on the city's Victorian Funicular Railway to the top of Petril Hill, and enjoy the breathtaking vistas from its Observation Tower.

As the capital city of the Czech Republic, Prague rightfully contains many of the country's most spectacular buildings. The Royal Palace is one such structure and was home to the Bohemian royal family from the 11th century until the 16th century. Check out the Old Town Square (Staromestské Námesti) and its palatial buildings, and be sure to visit Prague Castle, where the story of this much-loved city actually began. The castle stands high above the Hradcany district and much of its complex is enclosed by medieval castle walls. The term fairytale city is often used but for Prague it truly applies and each way you look you find another fascinating thing to marvel at.

The narrow streets are lined with crystal shops for which the Czech Republic is so famous. They are also famous for garnets and you can find the most beautiful jewelry stores on every corner. It makes me think of an adult theme park, great restaurants, wonderful shopping and historically magnificent architecture.

By dinner time I had to rush back to change because tonight I had tickets to the ballet at the Prague Opera House, they were playing Giselle and I had box seats. The theatre was magnificent and it was so romantic to be in this glorious venue seeing one of my favorite ballets. There is nothing like seeing a performance in a European theatre hundreds of years old. I could picture the ladies of yesteryear with their jewels and fans and satin and brocade dresses, a time of beauty, pomp and circumstances.



Although we were not allowed to take pictures I sneakily got a few taken without issue. I just could not be in this beautiful theatre and not take shots.

The ballet was wonderful and I walked around the area on my way back to the hotel. The city is very safe and there are always people walking everywhere. Sidewalk cafes do a booming business and it was a glorious site to see the town at night with all the small lamposts shedding their golden light over the cobblestones and ornate architecture.

It was a long day and after a well deserved hot bath in the deep European tub I had a great night's sleep in the comfy bed with down pillows and comforter. Tomorrow would be another full day at leisure.

Transylvania, Romania

10 June 2011 - I cannot even begin to tell you how excited I was for today! All my life since I was 6 years old I have been fascinated by Dracula and the vampire myth. I have dozens of books on the topic, movies and articles based on the popular folklore and I am totally enamoured by the whole mystic and legend surrounding Transylvania and Dracula. I have wanted for the longest time to visit this region and his famous castle and today my dream is coming true!

I had rented a private car and driver for this day so that I could stop and go at my own pace without the hindrance of a group. There were two great couples who I befriended on the cruise who were interested in doing this with me so it was simply terrific to share this with them. The driver showed up in a beautiful Mercedes SUV with seating for only 6 so this was perfect. It would be a few hours before we entered Transylvania and to say I was excited was an understatement.

I teased the driver that I was promised I would see a vampire on this tour and he said he would do his best.. lol. Enroute we all talked about legends and vampires and our driver gave us insight into Vlad the Impaler upon which the legend of Dracula was based. 

Prince Vlad, or as he was called even in his own time, Dracula (which means "Son of the Dragon") tops the list of Romania's many, many Christian crusaders who, in the transition years between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, fought to keep the Muslim-faithed Ottoman Turks out of their country. He ruled his military kingdom of Wallachia — southern Romania — with a heavy and blood-soaked fist. To not only the Turks but also to many of his own countrymen he was Vlad The Impaler. During his tenure, he killed by the droves, impaling on a forest of spikes around his castle thousands of subjects who he saw as either traitors, would-be traitors or enemies to the security of Romania and the Roman Catholic Church. Sometimes, he slew merely to show other possible insurgents and criminals just what their fate would be if they became troublesome.

Now I was heading towards this mysterious land where so much history had taken place and each minute seemed like an hour. I was like a child again wanting to ask "are we there yet?" at every turn. Most of the houses we saw along the road were painted in a multitude of colors and some had very strange shapes. We saw locals with donkeys and it made our ride very picturesque indeed and in keeping with my expectations of this medieval land. What seemed to be such peotic justic was that the day was grey and misty and in intervals we had light rain, I thought this was the ferfect setting to enter Transylvania, with mist hovering over the mountains. I felt like I was on a movie set.   

FINALLY up ahead was a sign that read "Welcome to Transylvania"....OMG I was here in the land of vampires and counts and medieval castles! It was a dream come true for me to be here. Our guide said that we would stop for lunch prior to heading off to visit the castles. By now we had been driving for a few hours and we were getting hungry.

I wanted a restaurant with typical Transylvanian food and we were not disappointed. Our guide took us to Vila Bran which was perched high on a hill and we had authentic goulash and Transylvania potatos which were awesome! The restaurant was so quaint with wooden furniture and wooden beams on the ceiling. As you walked up towards the entrance we were able to pet a reindeer, another experience not too many people get to do, such fun.

In this area there are two main castles which you should not miss. One is Peles Castle and the other is Bran Castle, better known as Dracula's Castle. The first one on our route was Peles. This castle is quite literally what you would see in a fairytale. It is probably the most beautiful castle I have ever seen in my world travels. Peles Castle is considered by many one of the most beautiful castles in all Europe. It was the final resting place for several Romanian monarchs including King Carol I, who died here in 1914. The building of the castle began in 1873 under the direct order of the Viennese architect Wilhem Doderer and was continued in 1876 by his assistant, Johann Schultz de Lemberg. The castle was built in wood, stone, bricks and marble and comprises more than 160 rooms. The representative style used is German Renaissance, but one can easily discover elements belonging to the Italian Renaissance, Gothic, German Baroque and French Rococo style.

Peles is surrounded by seven terraces decorated with statues (sculptured by the Italian, Romanelli), stone-made-wells, ornamental vases and Carara marble. The architects used an abundance of wooden decoration , both for the exterior and for the interior of the castle, which confers a very special quality to the building. Every conceivable luxury can be found inside, the best woods, crystal chandeliers from Italy, the most expensive Meissen porcelein and unimaginable opulence whereever you eyes roam. There is German stained-glass windows, walls covered with Cordoba leather, ebony and ivory sculptures, as well as an extensive weapon collections. Peles Castle shelters one of the most important and most valuable painting collections in Europe, almost 2000 pieces.

We spent over an hour viewing this great castle and after the obligatory stop at the souvenir shop (did I mention I was a shopoholic?) we were off on our way with my treasured Peles Castle coffee mug and book tucked next to me.




Now we were  heading towards the highlight of my day......Bran Castle! The route was misty and very picturesque with colored houses dotting the valley and mist hovering over the mountains. It was truly the image of what I thought this area would look like. Finally I could see Bran's Castle in the distance.

We were finally deep in the Carpathian Mountains, in the heart of rural Romania in Transylvania. Perched atop a rocky peak, the fortress has stood for nearly 1,000 years and it's now known around the world as "Dracula's" Castle. This is the building from which many Dracula movies took their inspiration. Situated near Bran and in the immediate vicinity of Braşov, it is a national monument and landmark in Romania. The castle is now a museum open to tourists, displaying art and furniture collected by Queen Marie. The castle was first used in 1378 in defence against the Ottoman Empire, and later became a customs post on the mountain pass between Transylvania and Wallachia. The castle briefly belonged to Mircea the Elder of Wallachia. Vlad III besieged Bran on at least one occasion, taking the castle briefly in 1459 during a punitive incursion into the Burzenland.

Bran Castle was originally a stronghold built by the Knights of the Teutonic Order in 1212. At that time it was called Dietrichstein. By the late 1200's the castle had been overtaken by the Saxons who had used the castle to protect Brasov, an important trade center. In 1370 the fortress was used against invading Turks. It remained an important feudal fortress through out the middle ages, its role was the defence against invasion.

In the 15th century during restoration of the castle the Observation Tower and the Eastern Tower were added. The Eastern Tower was built with murder holes that were used by the soldiers to drop hot water and pitch on the castles attackers. In 1921, Queen Maria of Romania, brought the royal court architect to Bran Castle for extensive renovations which transformed this "fortress" into a Royal Residence. The ancient Gunner's Room became the Royal Chapel, the defense gallery of the tower was remodeled into apartments for the Queen's ladies in waiting. A fourth floor was added to the tower for the Queen's Secretary.

Queen Maria had an elevator installed in the fountain which is in the interior court. The elevator descended 197 ft. to a tunnel which opened onto the lovely park grounds in the valley below. Bran Castle has been opened to the public for at least 40 years, a museum, it offers glimpses into the past, such as the Chancellor's Office, the Council Hall and the Garrison Rooms. Also on display are lovely examples of feudal art, weapons, statuary, furniture and hunting trophies.

To some walking up the trail towards Dracula's Castle might be just another stop on the tourist map but for me it was much more than that. It recalled all the Dracula movies I loved to watch as a child. The vampire myth has always been a great fascination for me because of the symbolic nature of the romantized power Dracula had on it's victims. 

Being a history buff it was amazing for me to be walking in the misty fog in the steps of Vlad the Impaler towards this imposing structure. As I stared at the oncoming steps leading up towards the castle entrance a sense of awe came over me at the thought of those who had lived here hundreds of years ago. I could not help but make the comparison of how extremely different the days of yesteryear were to those of today. Long ago a feared ruler in full regalia would have climbed these very stairs and opened the large doors while nervous servants scattered through the oil-lit hallways. Today a teenager with a Justin Bieber T-shirt hopped up the same stairs with his Ipod glued to his ears making silly vampire noises.....ahhh how life has changed.

The interior is sparsely furnished and the wrought-iron chandelier in the entrance has been electrified. The walls are white stucco and you can see small narrow windows in many nooks and crannies. The narrow staircases lead to sitting rooms and bedrooms. On the 1st of December 1920, the Bran Castle was donated to Queen Marie of Great Romania, as a symbol of the inhabitants of Brasov’s gratitude for her contribution to the achievement of the Great Union of 1918. Right after that, the Castle came into a seven year restoration period under the guidance of the Royal Court architect, Carol Liman. He imagined the architectural ensemble as a summer residence. During the same period of time the Tea House was also built.

When the sightseeing was done and I had dozens of photos I could hardly wait to hit the souvenir shop. I didn't want the typical Dracula mug momento but was hoping to find something as unusual as this place was. I wanted something special which would remind me everytime I looked at it that I had been to Dracula's house in Transylvania. Well did I ever find it!!! In a special glass case there it was calling my name, a real Vampire bat encased in a crystal cube! It is unbelievable! My eyes just bugged out when I saw it and I had to have it at all cost. The shop owner advised me that this item was a cottage industry and that they are raised just for this purpose and the funds are used to help charities in the area. These bats are very tiny and have fangs just like a vampire and they drink the blood of small prey in order to live thus the origin of their name.  

On the way out I was in search of a dog to photograph since I had made it a point to get a shot of a dog from each town we visited in order to make a canine montage of my trip which I thought would be fun. I looked all over the base of the castle and finally there he was. As luck would have it he was a scary black dog and I could not help but feel this was so much in keeping with what you would expect a dog in Transylvania to look like.

Finally it was time to leave and return to Bucharest. On the way back we made a short stop to visit the medieval town of Brasov and we strolled the quaint streets and made some final purchases. It then started to rain and we headed back. It was a 3 hour ride back to the hotel and we saw many villagers with carts of hay and produce along the way. Many old houses and churches dotted the scenery.

When I finally arrived in my room I just reveled in the magnificent day I had had. A day filled with wonder, mystery and stories of vampires and myths. It truly was a highlight of my trip. As I shut the light I peered out at the full moon and made sure my windows were securely locked :o)

Bucharest, Romania

09 June 2011 - Today after breakfast it was time to leave the ship which was a sad moment for sure after two great weeks of fascinating sights and decadent dining. But we still had two days in Bucharest and one of the hightlights of my trip was coming up....Transylvania and following in the steps of Dracula!

We bid farewell to the River Countess and were off for a city tour of magnificent Bucharest. I could see why they call this city the "Paris of the East". Grand boulevards dotted with stately homes abound everywhere and it was surprising to see such a vibrant and interesting city filled with a variety of architecture and colorful people.

We first visited the the Palace of Parliament. Due to its immense physical, psychic and historic stature, it is perhaps the most controversial building in Romania. Meant to be the crowning achievement of 'Centrul Civic' or 'Civic Centre' - Communist leader Nicolae Ceausescu's ambitious urban development plan - the Palace of Parliament represents one of the most extravagant and expensive building projects in the history of mankind; certainly of the last century. Claiming superlative as the world's second-largest building by surface area after the US Pentagon, the Palace of Parliament is one of Romania's biggest tourist attractions, despite popular disdain.

Estimates of the materials used include 1 million cubic metres of Transylvanian marble, 3,500 metric tonnes of crystal for the 480 chandeliers and 1,409 lights and mirrors that were manufactured, 700,000 tonnes of steel and bronze, 900,000 cubic metres of wood and 200,000 square metres of woven carpets, many of which were spun on site.

Though no figures have been officially released, it is said that some 20,000 workers toiled in 24-hour shifts, seven days a week, to build the Palace at the pace at which it was being constructed. To finance the project, Ceausescu had to take on enormous foreign debts. In order to repay these debts he systematically starved the Romanian people, exporting all of the country's agricultural and industrial production as the standard of living in Romania sank to an all time low. Food-rationing, gas electric and heating blackouts became everyday norms; people lived in squalor and poverty as the Ceausescu's themselves exhibited outrageous extravagance.

The Romanian Revolution of 1989 broke out just as the People's Palace was nearing completion. Mass protests in December 1989 in Timisoara caused martial law to be declared, a Bucharest rally turned to riot and the Ceausescus were forced to flee the capital by helicopter. They were soon after captured by police in Targoviste after abandoning their chopper, were sentenced to death by an ad hoc military court on charges ranging from illegal gathering of wealth to genocide and were executed by firing squad on Christmas Day, 1989.

Next we were off to see Revolution Square, site of the National Art Museum and Athenaeum concert hall. There is even an Arch de Triompe on the impressive Soseaua Kisseleff which is longer than the Champs Elysees.

There are many boulevards lined with smart shops and flowers line the streets. We took in several hours of visiting this expansive city and after our tour in very hot weather we were taken to our hotel for the next two nights, the Radisson Blu.

After weeks of gourmet food and sightseeing when I was finally in my room all I wanted was a nice long bath followed by a room service club sandwich. It was great to eat regular food for a change  while I lazed around in my nightie, perfectly content with a quiet night watching a movie.  It had been a tiring day and I went to bed not to late since in the morning I was about to undertake the sightseeing I had most anticipated since leaving home.......Transylvania!

Rousse, Bulgaria Part 2

08 June 2011 - We were docked in Rousse today again and we had a full day planned. After a drive through the Bugarian countryside we visited Veliko Turnovo which is built on three hills with the Yantra River winding through it. This is an unusual city whose stone houses seem perched one above the other on the steep bank of the Yatra river. We were taken to see Tsarevets - the place of the patriarchal church and royal palaces, the hill where Baudouin's Tower still rises, linked with the legend of the Latin Emperor Baudouin of Flanders who was captured by the Bulgarian king Kaloyan. We visited the entrance to the old fortress and saw the ruins of the Tzarevetz Castle

We also saw Trapezitsa - where the foundations of 17 medieval churches were discovered. It was a marvel to see the Bulgarian National Revival period architectural ensembles on Gurko Street, the old Nikoli Inn and the St. St. Constantine and Helena Church. The original Samovodene Market has been brought back to life and, as in olden times, skillful craftsmen fashion and sell exquisite objects in the small restored workshops. It was incredible to go from one shop to the next filled with local handmade treasures which you can buy for very little money.

There was a coppersmith making beautiful copper hammered pots that hung outside his shop gleaming in the sun next to window boxes filled with flowers, quite a quaint and beautiful sight.

Next I found a great bead shop where a lady was working away at making fabulous jewelry from the hand made beads she makes. It took forever to decide which to take home as they are all one of a kind individually made. I left with about 20 beads and only parted with a few dollars. It was a great time going from one shop to another viewing all the different crafts. The fun part is that you could buy items as souvenirs which are true items made in Bulgaria instead of having "Made in  China" stamped underneath, which makes each gift you take home that much more special.

One specialty which I fell in love with was the incredible hand made pottery you could find in some many shops. There was an infinite variety of pottery vases, cups, plates and cookware in so many colors, it was impossible to choose. Bulgaria is also famous for roses from which they produce Rose Oil which is exported worldwide. Many other products are made using the famous roses such as rose wine and rose liqueur (which is delicious!) as well as rose  body and bath products. One fun gift to bring home is a small wooden doll which contains a cylinder of rose perfume, really fun.   

After our free time for shopping we went and had lunch at a very picturesque restaurant where we had quite a tasty meal comprising of a wonderful goulash served in locally made pottery. The restaurant was quite large with beautiful grounds with fountains and a swimming pool, an outdoor Bar-B-Que made of stone as well as an area with caged peacocks which made for a really fun lunch stop. During the meal we saw a show with dancers dressed in traditional costumes and local musicians. It was so hot and humid that we were extremely happy to see the frosty bottles of beer, soda and water show up at our tables!

After lunch we were off to the village of Arbanassi which was founded in the late 15th centry by Christians coming from the south-western parts of the Balkan peninsula. It is situated 3km to the northeast of Veliko Turnovo, perching on a high plateau overseeing the Trapezitsa and Tsarevets hills. The settlement saw its bloom in the 17-18th c. when it grew into a wealthy crafts and trade hub. It was during that period that most of its gorgeous houses were erected. The oldest houses of Arbanasi are made entirely of stone and resemble tiny models of fortresses that cannot be seen anywhere else in Bulgaria.

Today Arbanassi is an architectural and museum reserve. It is a picturesque open-air museum of cultural heritage, which includes 80 houses as well as 5 churches, one special one being  "Rozhdestvo Hristovo" (The Church of the Nativity Of Christ) with more than 3,600 frescoes.

From the outside this building looks like a barn but inside is quite a different story. There are no windows but each inch of wall and ceiling space has been painted with extremely well preserved frescoes and the rooms are quite awe-inspiring. 

We got an added treat in our visit to this unique church. We were treated to a performance of some chant and operatic singing from a local ensemble of three ladies and a cleric who were very good indeed. It was quite a spiritual experience to hear chanting in this setting filled with so many incredible frescos. We sat on pews that were aligned against the walls in single file and the whole experience was amazing. 

After this full day many of us dozed off on the trip back to the ship. It was so refreshing to get into a nice cool comfy motorcoach after the sweltering heat of the day! We arrived back at the ship late afternoon. I was happy to find on my bed an envelope with an invitation from the captain to join him at a private cocktail party followed by dinner at his table with 6 other chosen guests. I was looking forward to this and anxiously got ready for this evening as it was the Gala Captain's Farewell Dinner. 

The private cocktail party with the captain was very special and it was so much fun to sip champagne and talk to the captain about his experiences at sea. After about 45 minutes we made our way to the dining room. I was very honored that the captain extended his arm to me to personally escort me to his table. I felt very proud to walk into the dining room on his arm with the eyes of all the passengers on us as we entered, these are the kinds of moments I will treasure always. The captain's table for eight was decorated with beautiful flowers and we were treated like royalty with white-gloved waiters placing silver-domed covered plates in front of us all served at the same time. It was quite magical with wonderful food and flowing champagne. This was definitely one of the highlights of the cruise.   

Rousse, Bulgaria Part 1

07 June 2011 - Today we had an early start as we docked in Rousse, Bulgaria at 8am. The tour today was a full day tour from Rousse to Varna and the Black Sea. The town of Rousse is located on the high right bank of the Danube River. It is the greatest and the most important Bulgarian town on the Danube River, known also as “Little Vienna” because of its ancient architecture. It is also a regional administrative centre.

Rousse has become the primary river port in Bulgaria and has contributed to the country’s historic and cultural riches. Founded in the 1st century as a Roman military and naval center, the town was called Sexaginta Prista (the City of Sixty Ships). The city’s name changed to Rousse while under Ottoman rule from 1388 to 1878. During the early 1900s, following Bulgaria’s liberation, the Monument of Freedom was erected in the central square. Overlooking the city, the female statue, with a sword in one hand and the other pointing toward the country’s liberators, hails as Rousse’s signature landmark today.

The famous Rousse mound - a prehistoric settlement existed more than 5000 years ago is located within the boundaries of the modern town. About 200 buildings in Rousse are considered part of architectural historical heritage of Bulgaria, 12 of which are especially valuable. Rousse is best-known for its 19th- and 20th-century Neo-Baroque and Neo-Rococo architecture. The city has a lovely downtown pedestrian area, which is filled with people enjoying the music, flowers, and fountains in the summer evenings.

After the tour of Rousse we traveled for several hours towards Varna, on the Black Sea. Varna’s origins date back almost five millennia, but it wasn’t until seafaring Greeks founded a colony here in 585 BC that the town became a port. The modern city is both a shipyard and port for incoming freighters and the navy, and a riviera town visited by tourists of every nationality.


It’s a cosmopolitan place and a nice one to scroll through: Baroque, turn-of-the-century and contemporary architecture pleasantly blended with shady promenades and a handsome seaside garden.

We had lunch at a restaurant on the beach shaped like an old pirate ship. It was very hot and humid and it was refreshing to finally get something to drink. After lunch we were free to walk along the beach or get our feet wet in the Black Sea. This was a topless beach and the men sure got an eyefull. 

In the mid afternoon we took our 2 1/2 hr. bus ride back to Rousse and the ship. I was exhausted when I finally reached the ship but was extremely grateful for having left the air-conditioning on high in my cabin.  

It was very easy to drop down on the bed for my pre-dinner nap, a welcome habit I had picked up in the past two weeks. I would nap from 5pm until 7pm and then get ready for dinner.

Another wonderful day was completed and the cruise was unfortunately coming to an end.   

 

Vidin, Bulgaria

06 June 2011 - This morning we arrived in Vidin, Bulgaria.Vidin is one of the oldest towns along the Bulgarian Danube bank. Here you will find many farms and the region is well known for wine and ceramics. The Turks built an extensive city wall around Vidin, and by the 16th. century it was the largest town in Bulgaria. During the 18th. and 19th. centuries Vidin prospered from the increase in river traffic. Today, as evidence of the different cultures that settled here you can find churches, synagogues, mosques, a bazaar and ruins of a medieval fortress.

After the tour of Vidin we went to visit the Fortress of Baba Vida. The construction of Baba Vida was started based on the ruins of an old Roman fortified watch-point called Bononia, which was most likely built over the foundations of an ancient Thracian settlement at the beginning of I A.D. The Bononia watch-point was in use from the middle of I till the end of VI A.D. It formed a part of the Danube border of the Roman Empire. The remains of the fortifications can be still seen today in different places in the town of Vidin. The best preserved section is the base of the northeast corner tower, which later became incorporated into the Baba Vida fortress during its construction.

Walking around the fortress on my own was a great experience since it was very quiet and peaceful and the area was filled with beautiful flowers and it was easy to believe that you were in a time centuries ago. Once can only imagine how life was when you needed such a fortress for protections. The view from the watch tower was amazing and went on for miles. Baba Vida was declared a national cultural monument in 1964 and also in 1964 the fortress opened a summer theater, which held traditional theatrical summer days. Many filmmakers recognize the unique natural scenery of the Baba Vida fortress.  The castle itself inside protects a number of findings and information about the history of the fortress. The entire fortress is tailored for tourism purposes, and visitors today can see the that the fortress is well maintained and in near natural condition and appearance.
 

After the fortress visit we headed towards a natural wonder, the rock formations of Belogradchick. Belogradchik is situated in an extremely picturesque region with unique rock formations and natural sights. Thus it has become a famous tourism centre with excellent resources for trips, cave and bicycle tourism, mountain climbing, hunting, fishing or even astronomic observation.  Belogradchick emerged during the middle ages with the construction of a fortress amidst the rocks, which determined the development of the settlement. The town is named after the white monastery of the fortress.  

The Iron Gates

05 June 2011 - This morning I could sleep in as we set sail on the Danube towards Vidin, Bulgaria. During the day we will sail through what is called "The Iron Gates". From its headwaters in Germany’s Black Forest, the Danube winds its way through ten European countries to drain into the Black Sea. For much of its course, the river moves lazily through wide valleys, but as it enters the border region between Romania and Serbia, its banks narrow into a series of high cliffs. Here, the river carved a passage through the lower Carpathian Mountains to its north and the Balkan Mountains to its south, creating a series of four steep gorges. These gorges are known as the Iron Gates.

The Iron Gates of the Danube River originally consisted of four narrow gorges and three wide basins spread over several miles of the river dividing Romania and Serbia. In the 1960s, a huge lock and dam was built to control the speed of the river and make navigating this section of the Danube River safer.  Today, the river flowing through the Iron Gates is peaceful, and it is 130 feet higher than prior to the dam and power station. The effect of the dam can be felt on the river for over 100 miles, and two locks, spread more than 50 miles apart, anchor each end of the Iron Gates. Over 23,000 citizens living along the river had to be resettled after the dam was complete.

Along the way we can see an interesting carving of a ruler high up on a massive rock, this is very impressive that this could have been done. We also got to go through some locks which is also very interesting as we are taken from one level to another and we see the ship go lower and lower with cement walls encircling us.....very unusual. The Great Kazan (kazan meaning "boiler") is the most famous and the most narrow gorge of the route: the river here narrows to 150 m and reaches a depth of up to 53 m (174 ft). East of this site the Roman emperor Trajan had the legendary bridge erected by Apollodorus of Damascus. Construction of the bridge ran from 103 through 105, preceding Trajan's conquest of Dacia. On the right bank a Roman plaque commemorates him. On the Romanian bank, at the Small Kazan, the likeness of Trajan's Dacian opponent Decebalus was carved in rock from 1994 through 2004.

Dinner this evening was great as usual. I had a Caesar salad, beef consomme and a roasted breast of Duck cooked in a red wine and orange sauce...stupendous! 

Viminacium, Serbia

04 June 2011 - This morning we arrived in Kostolac, Serbia. After breakfast I was anxious for today's tour which was a visit to the archaeological site of Viminacium.

 Viminacium was devastated and destroyed in the middle of the 5th century, and it remained forgotten and buried like Pompeii, which disappeared under a flood of lava from Vesuvius in 79 A.D. That analogy and the recognition that the remains of the Roman town and the military camp represent a site of exceptional interest explains why Viminacium has been called the Balkan Pompeii. What distinguishes Viminacium from other archaeological sites and makes it particularly important is the exceptional wealth of finds contained already in its surface, arable layer. As a result, more than 13.500 graves have been explored in the past twenty-five years and more than 32,000 finds have been deposited in the vaults of the Museum.

However Viminacium lies in the way of the expanding strip mine "Drmno". The experts and authorities, though aware of the importance of energents for the development of the country, are nevertheless trying to find means to preserve as large a part of the site of Viminacium as possible, for they consider it an exceptionally valuable testimony of the past which should be bequeathed to the future generations. According to the planned development of the "Drmno" strip mine, the zone of the Roman town and the military camp will not be endangered before 2040. Viminacium, however, covers as area of more than 450 hectares, and the town is directly menaced by the advancing mine.

Some exceptional monuments are located in this area. They include an aqueduct nearly 10 kilometers long, some late classical basilicas, agricultural estates of Roman veterans, villae rusticae, and Roman roads which connected Viminacium with the neighboring towns. Some of these monuments have been discovered by the methods of remote detection, the analysis of aerial photos, geo-radar and magnetometric examination, and some have been archaeologically explored.

I found it incredible to not only see artifacts of this ancient town but to see actual skeletons lying there only a few feet where I walked! This was truly amazing.

We returned to the ship for lunch and set sail at noon for Donji Milanovac, Serbia. After a full lunch it was nice to go on deck and watch the small villages slide by as we sailed along the Danube.

We arrived in Donji Milanovac, Serbia at around 7pm. Dinner this evening started with melon and Prosciutto then a rich cream of sweet corn soup. The main course I chose was beef Stroganoff which was wonderful. Dinner could not be complete without chocolate ice cream topped with whipped cream.  

After dinner we were entertained by the Triola Band from Skadarlija playing Old Town Music.  

Belgrade, Serbia

03 June 2011 - We arrived in Belgrade, Serbia at about 7am. Need-less-to-say I was still asleep until 8:30am. The breakfast buffets onboard are fantastic. They have several kinds of cereals and fruits to choose from, oatmeal as well. Then you have hot scrambled eggs with crisp bacon and pancakes; you can also have a made-to-order breakfast of a variety of omelets or eggs benedict......fresh orange juice to top it all off and if you want some cheese, it's there as well next to baskets of muffins and croissants with European jams aplenty. After the morning feast it was off to explore another new city. Belgrade. 

Belgrade is not a beautiful city - even Belgraders agree on that - but it is an interesting city that's full of hedonism, passion and finesse. Architecturally, it's a mishmash of two centuries of grandiose buildings and ugly Soviet-style concrete blocks. Perched between the Danube and Sava Rivers, the ancient Kalemegdan Citadel has always sought (not always successfully) to protect the city. Leading from it into the city heart is the princely Knez Mihailova, a street of restaurants, bookshops, galleries and shops full of pretty things. Belgraders love to shop and party, which probably developed as an antidote to the numbness of the Milošević years.

Belgrade is the capital of Serbian culture, education, science and economy. As a result of its tumultuous history, Belgrade has for centuries been home to many nationalities, with Serbs of the Orthodox Christian religion making up the majority of the population. The official language is Serbian, while visitors from abroad can use English to communicate. 

Once we finished our tour we went back to the ship for lunch. Lunch is also buffet style but there are a ton of hot and cold choices including roasts and great soups with fresh baked breads. The desserts are phnominal and unfortunately we are all indulging.  

In the afternoon we we free to visit on our own. I walked around and mingled with people and found a cute lil Serbian dog to photograph. I have been making a collection of one special dog photo from each location I visit which I feel will be fun when all grouped together.   

I was a bit tired this afternoon so a short nap was in order. I always get sleepy around 4pm and then wake up refreshed around 7pm to get ready for dinner. Speaking of dinner tonight I chose a seafood salad, a Serbian cream of potato soup followed by BBQ Norwegian Salmon. Of course no meal is complete without dessert and tonight I had a chocolate mousse with fresh fruits.

Osijek, Croatia

02 June 2011 - Today we arrived in the port of Vukovar, Croatia. After an early breakfast we headed off for a tour to Osijek. It is the largest city and the economic and cultural centre of the eastern Croatian region of Slavonia, as well as the administrative centre of Osijek-Baranja county. Osijek is located on the right bank of the river Drava, 25 kilometres upstream of its confluence with the Danube.


After a tour of the town we visited a school to see a presentation of some local folkloric songs and dances. The costumes were very colorful and it was enjoyable to see the proud faces of the girls and boys beaming with pride for demonstrating their local culture.

The highlight of the day for me was a hosted lunch by a local family. We were broken down in groups of eight and had lunch prepared by a local Croatian family in their home. When we entered the gate there were three little miniature Doberman dogs sitting there at attention as if to welcome us.

The meal comprised of a hearty vegetable soup with some home made bread, a salad, roasted chicken with great potatoes and home-grown vegetables and finish it off a nice sponge cake. They pride themselves in offering their home-made brady but man is it strong! It's 50% proof! One shot of that and you don't have to heat your home for weeks!

After the meal I just had to go out and play with those dogs. They came running over and were dancing all over the place with friendliness, very cute. I noticed a pond in the yard and then saw some small frogs jumping from lily pads into the water, when the dogs caught sight of them all hell broke loose! It was hysterical to see these small dogs swan dive into the pond and look for the frogs (which they never caught). They ran around the pond in a frenzy while the frogs mocked them, I had a great time watching them.

Behind the yard the owners had cages with an owl, some pheasants and other farm animals. They also had the biggest roses I have ever seen, I'm sure some were the size of lettuce heads. Very beautiful to see this calm way of life, a quiet village with small cottages dispursed here and there overflowing with flowers and caring neighbors and small animals. It was a fabulous day.

We then drove back to the ship to get ready for dinner. Tonight I had a very good consomme with dumplings, roasted rack of lamb followed by an amazing hazelnut cake served with hazelnut ice cream and caramel sauce.....OMG I can just imagine the calories on that one!

After enjoying a few Coke-lights in the library while I checked my emails and chatted with some friends, I went to bed around 1am...tommorrow is another day!

Budapest Part 2

01 June 2011 - Today we were in Budapest for another day. Right after breakfast we went on a real different tour out to the Puszta to see a horse show.

We exlored the vast Hungarian landscape on our half-day visit to the Puszta which literally means “plains”. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our tour of the Puszta began in Domonyvölgy. We drove for about 45 minutes befgore we reached this ranch and we were greeted by a handsome cowboy. We then got on covered wagons pulled by two horses to be led to the main building. We had so much fun laughing and cracking jokes, a good time.

They gave us upon arrival a pogaca (salty scone) and the traditional Hungarian welcome drink  palinka (fruit brandy). That stuff is lethal, it is 50% alcohol!! When you drink it you can feel the heat going down your throat and then it feels like your chest is on fire. They all make their own home made version and drink this stuff like it was water...hahahaha.

As the Puszta was originally inhabited by cowherds, horse herders, and shepherds, we were treated to an equestrian extravaganza. The horse show was very interesting and these Hungarian cowboys’ skills, including demonstrations of

pyramid riding and competitions between the horsemen was really fun to watch.

At one point they showed how their horses were well trained; they had them lay down on cue and then sit on their hind legs, was great. Then they had a  demonstration with large whips that make cracking noises as they are snapped. There was even a cute donkey pulling a cart.

Following the show we went to visit the stables to see the Lippizzaner horses since they are bred and trained here. They also had all kinds of other animals to see. There were water buffaloes, goats, chickens and a turkey all in the middle of hundreds of acres of land which belonged to the rancher. After the tour we headed back for our ship.

I had lunch onboard and dinner as well and when it was dark I decided to go take pictures of the chain bridge which is the world famous main bridge in Budapest.

I walked along the embankment of the Danube with the city all lit up reflecting on the water, it was truly magical. As I got closer to the bridge I could see the massive stone lions at the entrance all lit up, so beautiful at night.

I walked the entire length of the bridge from the Buda side t the Pest side and walked around for a bit taking pictures of some monuments there. There were lovers walking on and off the bridge and strolling along the Danube, it was a warm and romantic night.

I then walked back across the other side of the bridge, taking more pictures and leisurely mace my way back to the ship. By now it was close to midnight and most people were gone to bed. I made my way to the cabin and opened my patio door to marvel at the beautiful bridge I had just crossed. Waves flowed on the Danube. I finaloy got into bed turned out the lights and for a little while I gazed out at this fascinating city glowing in the Danube and then fell asleep thinking of the next adventure that lay ahead.